Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 43 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #7860
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    Well I have had my car for about 4 years now. We drove it around for a couple years and enjoyed it but I always knew it wasn’t what I wanted in my Galaxie. I’ve been collecting parts for a few years also and I’m at a point where I felt like I could start and make progress. I sold the 352 motor and Cruise-O-Matic last year. Here is the car I started with. What really got me motivated was my wife. she told me this last fall/winter(2015) that “If that car isn’t running by summer I’m going to burn that bitch to the ground”. Needless to say I’ve been pretty busy and making progress but it won’t running this summer, she is alright because she sees major progress. LOL This is how the car started and I’ll add more progress and pics as I have a chance.

    157.JPG

    151.JPG

    080.JPG

    #7908
    V8 Staff
    Keymaster

    Well I have had my car for about 4 years now. We drove it around for a couple years and enjoyed it but I always knew it wasn’t what I wanted in my Galaxie. I’ve been collecting parts for a few years also and I’m at a point where I felt like I could start and make progress. I sold the 352 motor and Cruise-O-Matic last year. Here is the car I started with. What really got me motivated was my wife. she told me this last fall/winter(2015) that “If that car isn’t running by summer I’m going to burn that bitch to the ground”. Needless to say I’ve been pretty busy and making progress but it won’t running this summer, she is alright because she sees major progress. LOL This is how the car started and I’ll add more progress and pics as I have a chance.

    That is a CLEAN car! You are probably going to change them, but I kinda dig the wire wheel covers. So, we’re deep into the summer… did she burn it down? Keep us posted, and welcome!

    Check out:
    V8 Radio Podcast: https://www.v8radio.com
    V8TV YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/V8TV

    #7921
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    Just got back from vacation so I’ll work on more updates soon. I should have noted that work began last fall and while it is not going to be running this summer I’ve made significant progress so I guess she is going to give me more time.

    #7926
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    So I started by removing the frontend sheet metal and then the factory power steering set up. Then went to trial fitting the Borgeson Power steering box. I still have to remove the trans crossmember and mount the manual linkage. Then I will be setting up the new motor and trans. To make sure things were out of the way I removed the heater box, steering column and console. I will be running a 5.4 and wanted to make sure I have as much firewall room as possible, that is the reason for removing the heater box, which is for sale.

    #7928
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    The immediate plans are to get the motor and tranny mounted the way they need to be. Get all the new suspension mounted and the steering column cut and fitted.

    Long term dreams and plans. I have and am going to be running a 2000 Lighting motor with an adapter plate to make possible the running of an 07 GT500 blower because it has the side draft intake. I want to run everything under a stock flat hood. I have a C-4 built to withstand 1000 hp, I know I won’t even be close to this amount, with a Gearvendor overdrive. I don’t have yet but will be acquiring a hydroboost brake set up. I will be getting a Ricks Tank fuel tank that is a direct replacement. I will be getting a Classic Auto Air heat and air set up. I have Fatman tublar upper and lower control arms and 2″ dropped spindles and the AirRide triangulated 4 link with single adjustable Shockwaves for all 4 corners.

    Some of you fly through your builds. I will have highs and lows so my thread will seem to be going nowhere at times. Please bear with me as I go, at times I will have to rebuild funds to get a part that maybe holding me up.

    Attachments:
    #7934
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    So I’m working on getting my steering together so I can set the motor where I want it, or at least where it will go. I’m running the Borgeson box and it has it’s own issues. First, I bolted it up and with the column tube mounted straight the input shaft is touching the inside or right side of the tube, probably off by 1 1/4″. It states in the directions that you may have to shim the lower front bolt to get alignment. They have been good to talk to when I called. I can get close if I only tighten the rear bolt as shown in these pics. I’m thinking that I might cut into the frame on the rear side and push it in the amount that the front is sticking out, if that makes sense? Cut a “U” shape where it is like a flap towards the rear and push it in and weld it back up.

    Next, it came with rag joint, but that is big. Borgeson offers a vibration dampener (in the picture) and they exchanged it for free. I installed the dampener and the new Borgeson steering shaft that Fatman Fab sent with all this stuff(more on that at the end). Then I cut 2″ off the column tube and slid it over the shaft and mounted it. That wasn’t enough, after measuring carefully over and over, can always cut more off, I cut 2″ more off. I went to the local bearing sales and thought I could get a bearing to fit the shaft and the inside of the tube, no such luck. The shaft is 3/4″ and the inside diameter of the tube is 2 1/8″. Well I bought an ag. that is 1.8xx outside diameter. A good friend of mine is making me a bushing out of UHMW that will sink the bearing up in the tube 1/2″ and have a snap ring to retain it. Hopefully mon. or tues.I’ll have it and I’ll post pics. This will center the shaft in the column and I need to do this to make sure the steering box is in line with the column and the shaft will be supported.

    The shaft that Fatman sent is going to have to be cut. I guess no matter which route one goes some of the shaft would have to be cut. I have to call Borgeson mon and see if they will respline the shaft for me or if a local machine shop will or can do this. The shaft is going to have to be shortened 4 7/8″.

    #7935
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    Also I did a search for Borgeson and 64 galaxie and found this,
    Randy McBride- ’64 Ford Galaxie :: Kenny’s Rod Shop – Fabrication Division
    If you scroll down the pics about 3/4 way there is a pic of this box mounted and the alignment issue. Kenny of Kenny’s rod shop called me back after I called and asked if he could talk to me a couple minutes, super guy to talk to. Anyways, he said they were thinking about cutting into the frame also but that when time came to send frame off to powder coating they had forgot to do this and when they started assembly they went with the U-joint/coupler you see in their picture. He said it was off about the same 1 1/8″ that I thought. They build some nice cars there.

    Then there is this car..
    1964 Ford Galaxie gets a Coyote engine and 4L80E trans swap
    Along the article it states that they made a custom mount and modified the drag link. I have called them 2 times to ask about it, this is Deans personal car, but haven’t received a call back at this time. Something cool on Deans car is the trans mount they fabricated for there trans., the whole car is cool, what am I saying! Could be an idea for someone changing trannys. Oh yeah, they flattened the cross member for oil pan clearance.Here isd another link to that car and you can see the Borgeson box mounted.
    http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis…alties-wheels/

    #7941
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    Well my friend got my bushing made, PERFECT!! You can see in the pics he recessed the bearing back some and put a snap ring groove in there to retain the bearing. The bearing fits very tightly. He left enough meat behind the bearing so that I can drill a small hole in the tube and run a screw into the UMHW to keep it in the tube. Perfect! If anybody knows where to get a snap ring, I need a 42mm or English equivalent, the biggest he had access to was a 40mm. He left a collar to rest against the tube base. This a picture of the bushing stuck in a piece of the tubing I cut off.

    Well Borgeson won’t cut and respline the steering shaft. Wish they thought to tell you this when you get products from them. They knew I was running their steering box and that the steering column has to be shortened so why would they even spline the shaft? Turns out I have to send the vibration coupling back and get one with the Double D and get the shaft cut and milled to a double D on the end. Well, just more trial and error, part of the fun and frustration. sorry about the blurry pics, hope you get the idea.

    #7949
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    Well, I got some good progress made today.

    I got the motor on an engine stand (forgot to take pics of that). I got a Canton oilpan because the sump was short, 8″, which allows me to set the motor back as far as I can. I’ll get pics.

    Now to the car. I got it outside and got out the grinder with a stack of cutoff wheels. I cut the engine mount stands off in preparation for the new mounts(pictures with engine). Ground it smooth, think I’m going to fill in the voids with weld and totally smooth the crossmember.

    Next I cut around the Borgeson steering box because I wanted the input shaft to be in line with the column shaft. When I tightened the rear bolt it did line up pretty close but the front of the box was kicked out about 3/16″. I cut it out and ground a wedge in the spacer and bolted it back together to align everything. Of course it took a couple tries. I’ll tack it in a couple places remove the box and weld it in solid. Do you have to do this?…. no but I’m running the Borgeson anti vibration coupler and they said it really needs to be inline….soooo.

    Third, after reading and looking at the Hot Rods by Dean 64 Galaxie I decided to cut the crossmember to be able to lower the engine and low as I could. Can you believe the places rodents get? I will make a template and get a piece made to weld in. Did I have to do this…. no but the motor I’m doing has a good size blower on it and I’m trying to keep everything under the stock flat hood.

    #7952
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    Here is the motor on the stand. These mounts are from Welders Inc. As you can see the stands are cut to fit. I was hoping the headers I had built long on go would fit but I put a head on and the headers flared too soon, I think, still crossing my fingers that when its mounted they might be close.

    Attachments:
    #7955
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    Well a little more progress. I got a 14″X3″X3/16″ plate, made my templates and cut out the pieces. I welded in the flat part first. I cut the side pieces tight, tacked them flush at the bottom and used a 3 lb. hammer to force them in at the top. I have a Hobart 175, I set it at 4(the highest) and wire speed at 70 (which as I understand it wire speed controls amps). As I welded it there was a void created and it filled back in, so I’m satisfied I got good penetration. I welded in the voids where I cut off the engine stands and then ground everything and then used a flapper wheel with 60 grit. I’ll probably paint everything with some krylon just to stop the rust until I get to set the motor. I’ll dress everything better when I take it apart.

    Attachments:
    #7958
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    More progress. Today(well late afternoon, I had to watch the UK wildcats beat Georgia) I welded in the steering mount and dressed it up a little, I will do a better job when I strip the frame down. You can see the amount I had to taper the frame to get it to line up with the column. This doesn’t have to be done to run the Borgeson power box, I just wanted it to be inline like they recommended. Knowing what I know now I could have completed this in a couple hours easy. If I had it to do over I would still go this route, of course I’m not driving yet. I have the car up on jackstands now. I’m going to be removing the exhaust, anybody need a duel exhaust for a 64 come get it and you can have it. It is all new but I will have to cut it in front of the rear axle to get it out. I’ll take pics and post as soon as I get it out. I’ll get the motor mated to the tranny and work on placing it next.

    Attachments:
    #7967
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    OK more…. I started off making cardboard templates of the frame stands so I can fit them to the frame when I set the motor in there where I want it.

    Next was mating the tranny to the engine so I could get both in there with the engine at the right angle. I didn’t take a pic yet but since the tranny is a C-4 the tranny mount is in the original place and the original tranny crossmember worked and fit. the Gearvendor is up against the floor but resting on the mount on the crossmember. I will have to cut and spread the tunnel just a little but it will be hidden under the console.

    Then I got my son to help push and turn the engine hoist while I guided the tranny from under the car. I was hoping to weld the stands to the tubular crossmember, not going to happen. They will reach to the frame so that is where they will be going. I am thankful that I cut into the crossmember, as you can see the oil pan sits down in there nicely. Man that is a lot of motor after seeing it mocked together. I put 2 bolts in each head but everything else is just sitting there. Just to refresh, it is a 5.4 Lighting motor with an adapter plate and a GT 500 blower, should be fun. I like how the exhaust ports are not pointing at anything, should be plenty room for headers. Those I will have to get made. Best of all I’m pretty certain at this time everything is going to fit under the stock flat hood.

    One clearance problem is the Borgeson steering box. The left head is resting against it. I’m going to have to grind the head a little. It won’t hurt, it’s only in the side of the valve cover rail. I don’t have a pic of that yet either, my camera battery died.

    #7976
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    Well it has been awhile. Wife had surgery(and doing better now), family visit, life in general, and on and on. Got into it today and couldn’t stop. Got the rear end out, did some grinding and fitting and mounted the triangulated 4 bar crossmember. One thing I have learned along with wtfwsat(Chris) is that it doesn’t fit the 63-4 trunk pan. I cut mine a little big because I plan on making a piece that looks factory to weld in. You can see in the one pic where it is up against the floor and the gap my fingures are fitting in. I only used 3 mounting bolts on each side to hold the crossmember because I plan on welding it in. I have the position from the bolt in the side and then snugged it up with the 2 bottom bolts. And I’ll say it again, the welds on these frames suck! I had to do a lot of grinding to allow the tabs to sit flush.

    #7979
    Ward Frahler
    Participant

    A couple more pics.

    Attachments:
Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 43 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.