Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 155 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #8432
    Jeff Holthenrichs
    Participant

    Keep moving it forward, Kevin.

    Replacing my spindles and disc brake setup now. Instead of pulling my spindles and having them modified and powdercoated, I bought another set. I’ll keep my originals wrapped up and oiled up for any future needs. I painted the control arms. Had the spindles powdercoated. Also, painted the frame up front. Media blasted every nut and bolt and painted them nice. Pulled the bumper and had the brackets powdercoated along with the reaction rods. Gonna look nice when I bolt it back together. Have to replace the outer tie rod ends. Also replacing the stock mushy springs with the stiff ones I took out last year, except I bought a new set and instead of cutting a full coil I only cut a half coil. They are shorter to start with and the full coil cut was just too much. Of course, the rebuild I had done on the steering box seems to have been a BS one as it is leaking. oy. Why can’t I find anyone who claims to do a job that really does it!? spindle.JPG

    #8433
    V8 Staff
    Keymaster

    The spindles look good, Yards. Keep us posted on the conversion!

    Sounds like you’re getting quite a bit of off-season work done on the car, that’s good to hear.

    Check out:
    V8 Radio Podcast: https://www.v8radio.com
    V8TV YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/V8TV

    #8434
    V8 Staff
    Keymaster

    BTW, which disc brake conversion is that?

    Check out:
    V8 Radio Podcast: https://www.v8radio.com
    V8TV YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/V8TV

    #8438
    Jeff Holthenrichs
    Participant

    An ROA member Down Under named Tony Gentilcore designed it. Had to machine the knuckles in one spot on each one to clearance for the new bracket. But they look much better and fit much better than the Scarebird setup. Just finished painting the frame, and nuts and bolts and sway bar today.Will bolt it all together next week between the holidays. new front springs. putting the previous rear springs in it again also. Stiffer than the OEM soft ones. Coming back from Cecil County in September with a full trunk and a buddy in the passenger it was a spark show the whole way. Stiffer springs will help that.

    Also, a client owns a metal coating shop and does all my powdercoating for free. Nice perk! The front bumper brackets look sick!

    #8439
    V8 Staff
    Keymaster

    That sounds great, Yards. I’d like to see the spindles assembled and your brake setup when you get it done. I know you’ve gone around in circles with the coil springs. Normally for most cars we can weigh the car and calculate a spring rate, but I know there are not many options for springs on the Rivs. Have you looked at the Jamco lowering springs? I think they offer 3 levels of drop, with a rate matched for the car, which might be more on-target than cutting a stocker. I would also think a company like Eaton would have something, I believe I used Eaton on my ’69 back in the day.

    Check out:
    V8 Radio Podcast: https://www.v8radio.com
    V8TV YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/V8TV

    #8440
    Jeff Holthenrichs
    Participant

    That’s what I have. Eaton. They are stiffer and shorter than stock, but the nose still sits too high for my taste. So I cut a whole coil and it sat too low in the front. I drove it like that for years and finally got tired of it last year. I went with softer springs. The stance was nailed but it was just too squishy! While it is no corner carver, the stiffer front and rear springs really made it corner great for an antique barge. So I ordered another set of front springs and just cut half a coil this time. I’ll know for sure in 2 or 3 weeks, depending on how much time I have to reassemble it and bleed the brakes. I also need an axle bearing, I think. Lots of rumble back there. I hope that’s all it is. I have another 3.42 set but really don’t want to haul the whole rear out and up to NY to have my guy do a swap.

    #8441
    V8 Staff
    Keymaster

    Gotcha. What are you doing for shock absorbers?

    I also hope you only need some axle bearings and seals in the back… these rear ends are a pain in the… rear!

    Check out:
    V8 Radio Podcast: https://www.v8radio.com
    V8TV YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/V8TV

    #8442
    Jeff Holthenrichs
    Participant

    KYB Shocks. The lower mounting “tube” on them that fits inside the lower control arm is too short and has to be packed with washers or a spacer on each end. I’m going to try to get spacers made as stacked washers is kind of busch league.If you want the part number let me know.

    #8444
    V8 Staff
    Keymaster

    1969-1970RivFrtSusp.png

    I see, so the lower tube would walk back and forth on the mounting bolt without spacers to center it in the control arm. Should be an easy one. We’ve got tons of spacer tube in the shop… if your shocks are out now, let me know the ID and the length of the spacers needed, I’ll make you a set. Looks like a 7/16″ bolt.

    Check out:
    V8 Radio Podcast: https://www.v8radio.com
    V8TV YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/V8TV

    #8446
    Jeff Holthenrichs
    Participant

    I’m on it…

    #8448
    Jeff Holthenrichs
    Participant

    Okey Dokey. Some quick elementary math and……. I need 4 spacers with an ID of 7/16″ and each spacer needs to be at MOST 31/32″ long. The KYB Shock part# is KG4509. shocks.jpg

    #8460
    V8 Staff
    Keymaster

    Cool. I’m going through our stash of stuff now. I’ll let you know what I come up with!

    Check out:
    V8 Radio Podcast: https://www.v8radio.com
    V8TV YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/V8TV

    #8507
    V8 Staff
    Keymaster

    The original alternator started to whine, so I popped for a parts store replacement and will eventually rebuild the original. It still made decent power, but the bearings are drying out and won’t last long.

    These cars use an external voltage regulator, and mine was starting to go south. In the Riv, the regulator is mounted on the firewall right behind the dash, so you can hear the coil and contact points operating as the regulator works. It’s a “tinny” mechanical clicking sound that lets you know it’s working, but my dash lights were getting really bright at night, signalling an over-charge situation. While I like the light, the battery does not. Overcharging a battery will cause a premature demise. And we have plans for some audio upgrades, which require a consistent power source, as electronics don’t like high voltage either.

    The original regulators are adjustable, and this one probably can be calibrated to be back within specs, but that won’t erase the zillions of cycles and nearly ½ century of life it has lived. We elected to replace it, and the cool thing is that the modern replacements have solid-state electronic internals.

    The old & the new

    Check out:
    V8 Radio Podcast: https://www.v8radio.com
    V8TV YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/V8TV

    #8508
    Jeff Holthenrichs
    Participant

    First, thanks for the idea to use plumbing couplings as spacers for my shocks. Worked like a charm. Just had to hold each one against the grinder to level them and shorten them. Took only a few minutes. If I were anal I’d have ground the outside casting form off them, but they are hidden and I’m just not up for that much grinding. They look fine.

    Second, I converted to a modern , high-amp, one-wire alternator on my 69. Works great and powers my mega-watt stereo with the AC cranking, trans cooler fan and auxiliary electric cooling fan just fine. Not sure if you can get a higher amp unit as a stock replacement. Keep us informed.

    Third, I rebuilt my underhood engine wiring harness. Had to do it wire by wire. Had to source all the clips and stuff piece-meal. Reused some of the original stuff. I’ve done a few for others since then. My wires were rock hard and very brittle. I also replaced the resister wire with a standard wire so I can run an MSD setup and electronic ignition. Let me know if you want me to do yours. As a favor. Now, as for the other harnesses in our cars…….. LOL.

    #8509
    V8 Staff
    Keymaster

    Visually, the new piece looks similar, but does not have the Delco Remy stamp in the case cover. You can’t simply swap covers, as the new one is riveted in place and would require some drilling. Not a big deal, but maybe this becomes a rainy-day restoration project, making the new regulator look like the old one.

    Check out:
    V8 Radio Podcast: https://www.v8radio.com
    V8TV YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/V8TV

Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 155 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.